Backpacking Banff – The Drive from Calgary

My first trip was at 18 months old when my parents took me out West to visit my Great-Grandparents in Saskatchewan.  Even though it was about 8 – 9 hours away, my Mom convinced my Dad to drive us to Banff for a brief visit as part of this trip.  Although I have no memories of this, I'm thankful my parents took a lot of photos of this amazing trip.  It would take me nearly 35 years before I would make my long awaited return to Banff due to a work trip.  When I told my parents about this, my Mom was all ecstatic and telling me how much I would love it.  For someone who has rarely shown interest in my previous travels, this said a lot about this tiny mountain village that I was about to visit.

Descending upon Calgary with a glimpse of the Rocky Mountains

Before heading to Banff, I was in Calgary for a couple of days for training and administrative errands for my new position.  I didn’t get to see much of Calgary, but it was far more than what I saw back in 2009 when I here during a 2-hour layover to Vancouver.  The two things that vividly stick out in my mind about Calgary is how beautiful the city is and how amazing the Bloody Caesars are.  I definitely look forward to my next visit to Cowtown.

Downtown Calgary skyline

After a couple of days in Calgary, we were ready to head off to Banff for our retreat.  Since our office was based near the Calgary International Airport, my co-workers decided to drive north along Deerfoot Trail (Highway 2) until we hit Stoney Trail NW (Highway 201).  From there, we headed Southwest until it merged onto the TransCanada Highway.  However, if you are based in downtown Calgary, the TransCanada Highway actually runs right through the middle of the city.  So, just follow the signs that will lead you onto the highway from there instead as it is the more direct route.

Approaching the Rocky Mountains in Morley, Alberta

As for the drive to Banff, it was an adventure in itself.  It’s usually a two-hour drive from Calgary, but we were stuck on the highway just outside of Morley for about a half hour due to a terrible rollover.  It appeared that speed was involved given that the car left our side of the highway, drove right through the grassy ridge separating both sides of the highway for about 100 meters, and ended up facing the opposite side of traffic.  It’s important to keep your eyes open here as moose are known to cross the TransCanada Highway.  I am sure that might have been the case here given the severity of this accident.

Driving towards Banff along the TransCanada Highway

Once you get to Morley, you start to see the majestic Canadian Rockies pop out at you from the horizon.  I was overcome with sheer adulation at this point for the natural beauty in front of me.  The last time I was that impressed by the scenery on a road trip would have to been my first visit to Death Valley.

Banff National Park

As we got closer to Banff, the more impressed I became.  You feel so small driving through the mountain range as the peaks hover nearly 10,000 feet above you.  The tree lines along the Rockies become more noticeable as you begin to pinpoint where the pine trees stop growing and where the glaciers begin.  Small lakes start to replace the flat lands that you pass just as you start to enter Banff National Park.

Welcome to Banff!

Once you enter the village of Banff, you start to see a different style of architecture similar to what you would see in European ski villages, particularly in Germany and Switzerland.  There was quite a bit of construction going on along the main street, so we took some back roads to get to our hotel.  This route allowed us to see more of the residential homes in Banff, as well as the local school.

View from my room at the Banff Park Lodge Resort Hotel

By the time we arrived at the Banff Park Lodge Resort Hotel, it was just past noon.  Our rooms were not ready yet, but it didn’t matter.  I already knew that Banff had something special to it, and I was looking forward to enjoying whatever I could in between our business meetings within the next 48 hours.

Indy Hostel – Indianapolis’ Only Hostel

Once it was confirmed that I would be going to Indianapolis for an industry event, I immediately began looking for cheap accommodation so I could spend a couple of days to check out the city.  I was on a bit of a scouting mission as I plan to go to the Indy 500 in 2016 for the 100th Running.  With the convention going on during the last week of October, my options were extremely limited.  In fact, the average price for budget hotels were going for around $100 US per night – far more than my budget would allow for a weekend getaway.

Indy Hostel - Indianapolis' Only Hostel

I had even considered using Air BnB, but with prices not much cheaper and a bit further out of the way from downtown, I quickly eliminated that idea.  Eventually, I decided on staying at the Indy Hostel.  For about $35 US per night and fifteen minutes south from the heart of Broad Ripple Village – the epitome of Indianapolis’ College nightlife scene – I really couldn’t go wrong here.

Airport Pick Up/Drop Off

The Indy Hostel is located on the south end of Broad Ripple Village, so it is by no means an easy destination to get to from the airport.  You could take a cab, but that might easily run you over $80 US.  You could take the Airport Shuttle downtown for about $10 US, and then catch the Number 17 bus at the State Capitol for an additional $1.75 for a one-way trip.  However, public transit is terrible in Indianapolis, so you would be waiting for at least an hour for the bus to pick you up.

Heading to the Indy Hostel

For $48 US, the Indy Hostel can either pick you up or drop you off at the airport for a one-way trip.  I opted for this choice because it was quicker, reasonably priced, and it gave me a chance to speak with one of the Hostel workers about restaurant and tourism suggestions within Indy.  When you book your reservation online, you can opt-in for this service.  Payment can be made via cash or credit card once you arrive at the hostel.

Location

Since my budget was limited for this trip – and I was not looking to party the night away – choosing to stay at the Indy Hostel was the right choice for me given its location within the Southern area of Broad Ripple Village.  Located at 4903 Winthrop Avenue, the Indy Hostel is located within a quiet neighbourhood about a 20-minute walk south of the vibrant downtown area of Broad Ripple Village.

Common area inside the Indy Hostel

As for getting to downtown Indianapolis, the Indy Hostel is a mere four block walk east of the North College Avenue & East 49th Street bus stop.  The Number 17 bus can get you downtown within 20 minutes.  Furthermore, this neighbourhood has one of the most unique bars that I have ever seen – the Sinking Ship – and a nearby liquor store where tall boys of Rolling Rock for a mere $2 US per can!

Aesthetics & Amenities

Not quite a hostel, but not quite a Bed & Breakfast, either, the Indy Hostel is like a “home away from home” for backpackers.  The walls are adorned with the works of local artists.  The living room was warm and cosy with plenty of DVDs for guests to watch.  Internet access was readily available with free WiFi.  The backyard also had a fire pit, which we all gathered around at each night.  There was also a stage in the backyard for local musicians to entertain guests and locals for special Band Jam events.  Since I was here in late October, the backyard was adorned with plenty of Halloween decorations, which further added to the homely vibe.

Some of the Halloween decorations around Indy Hostel

I was astonished by how clean the hostel was, as well.  Having stayed in a few hostels in Los Angeles, Paris, and Rio de Janeiro, I was quite impressed by how well the Indy Hostel staff took care of this place.  From what I understand, this hostel generally attracts a much older crowd (late twenties to early thirties), business travelers, and families who are in town to watch their children graduate from one of the local colleges.

Customer Service

It goes without saying that customer service should always be top priority for any business.  When I first landed into Indianapolis, I received a voicemail and several texts saying that no one would be picking me up despite requesting it when I booked my reservation in September.  While trying to come up with an alternative method of transportation, I took my sweet ol' time admiring some of the kitschy artwork and posters around the airport.

Indy Hostel - A "Home away from Home"

Around this time, I received one final text from the Manager on Duty that they would in fact be sending someone to pick me up after all, and not even 30 seconds later, the Intern had called me to let me know she was waiting for me in the Arrivals area.  Although you initially screwed up my initial request, you quickly won me over again with this prompt customer service, Indy Hostel!

The People

As with any hostel experience, you typically meet some interesting characters along the way.  The first two people that I met at the hostel – Jamey and Debra – had been living there for almost a month. Jamey came from Atlanta to work on a renovation project with a few of his friends, and Debra had recently moved here from Pennsylvania as per "God's wishes."  I found her to be a bit crazy to move to Indianapolis on a whim like that, but she quickly got a job at one of the local hotels and had a heart of gold.

Daytime view of the Indy Hostel's backyard

English Dennis was a man in his late forties that I met during my first night at the hostel while chilling around the bonfire.  Dennis had left London at the beginning of September for his "Wrong Shaped Balls" tour, which would see him tour every single NFL stadium during the 2015 regular season.  To visit every NFL stadium within a regular season is tough, but to come from Europe to do it is just absolutely insane and awesome!

English Dennis discussing his Wrong Shaped Balls tour with other guests

Abdul was another guest I met staying at the hostel that weekend.  He was in town visiting one of his College friends.  Originally from Saudi Arabia, Abdul told me how he ended up living in Central Illinois to pursue his dream of studying in the United States.  It was just cool to have a drink and a casual conversation with someone from the Middle East where the culture is far more conservative than here.

Computer room with complimentary Internet access & printing services

Aidan was the last person I met during my stay at the Indy Hostel.  Deciding he would take some time off to enjoy a gap year before starting College, Aidan told me about his plans to build up his film portfolio and travel around the world extensively in 2016.  He was in town for a film festival showcasing one of his latest projects.  In some way, he reminded me of a younger version of myself, except I never had the balls that he did when I was his age.  All in all, the Indy Hostel really impressed me and is a place worth staying at if you are going to Indianapolis.

Indy Hostel - Indianapolis' Only Hostel

Indy Hostel

4903 Winthrop Avenue

Indianapolis, IN 46205

United States

Phone: (317) 727-1696

Email:  stay@indyhostel.us

Website:  www.indyhostel.us

Indianapolis – The Crossroads of America

It had been quite some time since I was last sent on the road for work, so it was crossing my mind to fly in a couple days early to check Indianapolis out.  If you've never been, then Indianapolis is literally located right in the heart of America.

Indianapolis Motor Speedway

It’s your typical Midwest American city – one that had previously thrived on the yesteryears of the Manufacturing boom only to have bottomed out and try to find itself again.  Pittsburgh is a classic example, but I digress.  Here are five quick facts about Indianapolis if you plan to visit.

(1.)   It has a thriving Sports scene.

Indianapolis is world renowned for its annual Indy 500 race every Memorial Day Weekend, but did you know that it also has two professional sports teams (Indianapolis Colts and the Indianapolis Pacers), hosted several significant sports events (Super Bowl XLVI, 2002 FIBA World Basketball), and is home to the NCAA – America’s top Collegiate sports governing body?

Al Unser's 1972 Parnelli Indy Car

In addition to this, Indianapolis has a thriving cycling and soap box derby community.  The Monon Trail allows for many locals and tourists to run, cycle or walk along a former train track that goes right through the heart of the city.

(2.)   International Art & Culture play a big part in the local economy.

More than 150 international and cultural associations can be found in this Midwestern city as surprising as it may seem.  Throughout the course of the year, visitors can expect such exciting events as Irish Fest, the Chinese Festival, Oktoberfest, Fiesta, and the annual International Violin Competition, which attracts over 165 applications from 32 countries.

Even former Pop Stars tour Indianapolis!

Furthermore, if you fancy the local food markets, then check out the International Marketplace on the west end where more than 70 languages are spoken and the variety of ethnic restaurants and grocery stores are plentiful!

(3.)  It’s the “Education Capital of America.”

With more than 40+ Colleges and Universities located across Indiana, Indianapolis is one of the largest Colleges towns within the country.  Calling it the “Education Capital of America” might be over exaggerating a little I admit, but with over 20,000 foreign students attending Indiana’s Higher Education institutions, and with over 200 languages being spoke across the Indianapolis Public School District, it is safe to say the Indy is one of the fastest growing Education markets in America.

Hostel Indy 

(4.)   #1 Place in America for Foreign Business Investment

Indiana currently ranks #1 in North America for attracting production jobs through foreign direct investment.  It has more than 500 foreign companies representing 36 different countries, such as Bayer (Germany), Rolls Royce (Great Britain), and Roche Diagnostics (Switzerland).

Flying to Indy via Chicago's O'Hare International Airport

Locally-based Eli Lilly & Co. employees more than 20,000 employees worldwide and more than 50% of locally-based Dow AgroScience’s revenue comes from outside the United States.

(5.)  Indianapolis has 8 Sister Cities.

As with every major city in the world, Indianapolis has its fair share of “Sister Cities” to cross-promote cultural understanding and tourism.  As of October 2015, Indianapolis has 8 Sister Cities:  Taipei (Taiwan), Cologne (Germany), Piran (Slovenia), Hangzhou (China), Campinas (Brazil), Northamptonshire County (United Kingdom), and Hyderabad (India).

Downtown Indianapolis

As I sit here at my hotel desk reflecting on my past few days here in Indianapolis, I must say that I am more impressed than I thought I would be about this city and by the people that I have met here.  It is super clean, super friendly, and revitalization of Indy has been taking off a lot in the past 10 years from what I have been hearing talking with the locals.  But, I will save those stories later for another day as I must get ready to head back home soon.

Weech's Travel Map

There is a viral hit making its rounds on the Internet where people can "map out" the places that have visited in the World.  You can get your own travel map from Matador Network, but in the meantime, here are the "countries" that I have set foot on in my lifetime.

Ray has been to: Argentina, Austria, Belize, Brazil, Canada, Cuba, Dominican Republic, France, Germany, Greece, Guatemala, Haiti, Italy, Jamaica, Liechtenstein, Mexico, Monaco, Netherlands Antilles, Paraguay, Peru, Puerto Rico, Saint Martin, Sint Maarten, Switzerland, U.S. Virgin Islands, United States.

How many countries have you been to?  Which ones?

Tasty Travels - Casa do João

Our group had one more night in Bonito before making an early morning trek to the Pantanal, the World’s largest wetland system, where we would be staying at a remote ranch for the next two days.  We decided to celebrate our last night in civilization by eating at Casa do João, one of Bonito’s oldest restaurants whose specialty is Traíra, a type of predatory fish found in Brazil.

The History
Casa do João was originally a wooden colonial house in the middle of a large field surrounded by many animals and an orchard of exotic fruits.  It was a popular place for family gatherings and entertaining friends.  As a result, João came up with the idea of opening his home to locals by adding a bar and offering traíra, which is a predatory fish found in the Amazon, and extremely difficult to de-bone.

Casa do João's Main Bar

As the popularity of the restaurant grew, so too, did the need to expand!  Everything that you see at Casa do João – from the veranda to furniture – is made from recycled wood.  The materials used at this restaurant come from old forest fires, fallen trees, disused corrals, and abandoned houses.  Casa do João is by far the most eco-friendly restaurant that I have ever eaten in.  Today, several of João’s children and friends help run Casa do João.  Many of their positions range anywhere from cooking to hosting to running the souvenir shop next door.

The Location
Casa do João is located a couple of blocks away from the town square of Bonito at Nelson Felicio 664A.  It’s about a 15 – 20 minute walk from Muito Bonito Hotel where we were staying, and not the easiest place to find if you are unfamiliar with the side streets in town.  To get there, you will head down Rua Coronel Pilad Rebuá until you pass Taboa Bar. At the next intersection, you will make a left down Rua Sen. Filinto Müller and keep walking straight for the next two blocks until you pass Rua Vinte e Quatro de Fevereiro.  You will see the sign for Casa do João on your right-hand side.

Busy night at Casa do João's

The Menu
Casa do João is renowned for its fish platters.  If fish doesn’t tickle your fancy, then you can also try their filet mignon or grilled chicken options.  Side dishes include items such as potato wedges, sautéed potatoes, white rice, cheese, and fish sauce.  All of these extra items come with a charge between $5 - $9 Reais ($2.50 - $4.50 US).  You can also order different broths for appetizers, such as soups and salads.  I tried piranha broth, which came with Parmesan cheese, spring onions, and croutons, for about $17 Reais ($8.50 US).

Piranha Broth

The house speciality is traíra, which is a predatory fish found in the Amazon, and extremely difficult to de-bone.  Of course, I ordered a plate for myself, which comes with rice, fresh salad, traíra pirão (famous fish sauce), and a special home-made sauce for about $30 Reais ($15 US).

Traíra wasn’t originally my first menu choice as I had initially wanted to order some caiman.  But, since caiman were out of season at the time, I opted for traíra instead.  You can also order other exotic fish entrées, such as pirarucu, pacu, tilapia, and pirarara.

Traíra for One!

Dessert options include ice cream, homemade sweets, local fruits, cakes, and mousse.  Drink options range anywhere from liquor to beer to pop to caipirinhas to wine to coffee.

Armazém do João
Armazém do João is the gift shop next to the restaurant.  Here you can find all sorts of handicrafts, artworks, and small trinkets to bring home for souvenirs.  I bought a few fridge magnets myself.  The gift shop is definitely worth a quick visit!

Armazém do João

Overall, I have to admit that I was very impressed with Casa do João.  From the ambiance to the architecture, this place has a very relaxing, romantic vibe to it.  The portion sizes of their entrées are ridiculously huge, so you get fair value for what you paid for.  My only two minor complaints from dinner was having to wait over a half hour for my piranha broth and not being able to try caiman.  Otherwise, I would recommend checking out Casa do João while you are in Bonito.  The traíra is well worth it!

Casa do João

Casa do João

Address:  R. Cel. Nelson Felício dos Santos, 664 - Centro, Bonito - MS, 79290-000, Brazil

Hours:  Thursday – Tuesday from 6pm to 11pm

Phone: +55 67 3255-1212